Why We Love In-Wall Toilets (and Why You Should Too)

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This post was created in partnership with Geberit as part of a sponsored collaboration.

When you’re renovating in a New York brownstone, every inch counts. Bathrooms, especially in older homes, tend to be compact, irregular, and full of quirks. So when we’re designing these spaces, we’re always looking for solutions that maximize function without sacrificing design. That’s why we’ve become big fans of Geberit’s in-wall systems and actuator plates. 

A Smarter, Sleeker Solution

Geberit pioneered the in-wall cistern more than 60 years ago, and their innovation has become the industry standard for modern bathroom design. Instead of a bulky tank sitting behind the toilet bowl, the Geberit Duofix system integrates everything inside the wall. The concealed steel-frame carrier supports the wall-hung toilet bowl and houses the tank, which is pressure-tested before it ever leaves the factory.

This not only creates a cleaner visual line, it fundamentally changes how the space feels and functions. With the tank hidden, you free up floor area, increase the perception of space, and can even adjust the mounting height of the toilet bowl to suit accessibility needs or design preference.

Installation That Makes Sense

From a plumbing perspective, the Duofix in-wall carrier is engineered to simplify installation. It’s compatible with both 2×4 and 2×6 stud walls, making it a fit for most renovations or new builds. 

The carrier bolts directly into the framing, distributing weight through the steel frame rather than relying on the wall finish itself. Once installed, the frame can support up to 880 pounds, which gives both contractors and homeowners peace of mind.

The system connects to standard waste and water lines, and the concealed tank is designed with dual-flush technology, 1.6/0.8 or 1.28/0.8 gallons per flush, meeting both U.S. and Canadian plumbing codes while dramatically reducing water consumption. Because all mechanical components are accessible through the flush plate opening, maintenance and future servicing can be done without opening the wall.

A modern bathroom with green tiled walls, a black marble sink, gold fixtures, a round wall mirror, a toilet, and a glass shower with an arched door.

Why We Like the Actuator Plates

Once the in-wall system is installed, the actuator plate becomes the only visible element. It’s a small but crucial detail, and one that can completely change the aesthetic of a bathroom. Geberit’s Sigma40 actuator plate is the thinnest in their lineup at just 3/16 of an inch deep. Available with round or square buttons, in a wide variety of finishes in both glass or metal. The plates feature fingerprint-resistant coatings and a refined dual-flush mechanism that feels solid and responsive.

The flush plate doesn’t just look good, it also provides easy access to the system’s internal components. Beneath it, you’ll find the service panel that allows plumbers (or experienced DIYers) to adjust or replace parts like the fill and flush valves. These valves are engineered without the traditional chains and flappers that often corrode or fail over time, ensuring smooth, long-term operation.

Performance Meets Design

One of the reasons we keep specifying Geberit products is that they bridge the gap between engineering precision and design flexibility. The in-wall system pairs with wall-hung bowls from nearly every major ceramic manufacturer, so we can choose a fixture that fits the style of the project, whether it’s classic, mid century, or ultra modern. And because we use Geberit Duofix systems and actuator plates in 90% of our projects, we can rely on consistent performance along with the design freedom we need.

And for anyone renovating an older home, an in-wall system can actually simplify layout challenges. By moving the tank inside the wall, you can reclaim precious inches of depth and make tight spaces feel noticeably larger. Add the visual lightness of a floating bowl, and the entire room feels elevated.

A bathroom with maroon wall tiles, a white toilet with a dual flush plate, a handheld bidet, and a wooden shelf displaying decorative items.

Why We’ll Keep Using Them

Every renovation we do has to balance history with modern living. Geberit’s in-wall systems check all our boxes: clean design, reliable performance, sustainable water use, and easy maintenance. Behind the wall, it’s all precision engineering. In front of it, it’s pure design freedom.

If you’re planning your own bathroom renovation, especially in a smaller or historic home, consider going in-wall. It’s one of those upgrades that you’ll appreciate every single day.

Where to Get the Best Doors

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One question we constantly get is people asking us where to get the best doors. Whether you’re renovating a historic home or a newer construction, doors are a great way to upgrade your design in both the interior and exterior of the home. If you’re getting ready to replace yours, make sure you’ve got a great screwdriver, a helping hand, and of course some beautiful hardware to go along with it.

LOCAL SUPPLIERS

We source from Trustile Doors or PBI Doors through Midwood Doors, our local supplier, but if you’re not in New York, you can simply input your zip code on either the Trustile or PBI websites to find a supplier near you!

beautiful wood door opened to entry way

ARCHITECTURAL SALVAGE

Another great place to look (if you’re willing to do a little bit of a restoration project) is an architectural salvage yard! We recently toured our favorite architectural salvage yard in Brooklyn over on our YouTube channel and there were SO many incredible options!

burgundy door framed by blue wallpaper

Pros and Cons of Tankless Water Heaters

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If you have ever been last in line for a shower and were left with luke warm water to start, that quickly turns freezing, it probably wasn’t the most pleasant experience. On the other hand, when no one is home all day or when you’re on vacation for days or weeks there is plenty of hot water to go around being heated and reheated – full tank futilely waiting for you to turn on the faucet at any time. For these reasons and more many people are choosing to put in tankless water heaters, but are they all they are cracked up to be? We looked at our giant 80 gallon tank and wondered what to do.

A tankless hot water system only heats water when you need it.  So if just one person  is taking a shower you don’t need to heat water for 5. Same goes for washing clothes, doing dishes and whatever else you would need hot water for. You might need a gallon or you might need 30 or 40 or 100. There is no limit to how much hot water a tankless system can produce. Sounds great, right? But there are also drawbacks. Let’s explore!

Pros
More efficient use of energy to heat water. Since you’re not heating a giant tank of water for hours, days, or even weeks when you might not be home, you’ll obviously save in energy expense. The US Department of Energy says they can us up to 34% more efficient.

Unlimited stream of hot water. You can take 1 or 100 showers in a row and you will most likely have the same enjoyable steaming hot water. (Although see cons for further clarification)

Longer lifespan. Most tankless water heaters will last longer than your average traditional tank unit. They can easily last twice the lifespan of a tank unit and have longer warranties as well. (This is an important note when you consider the cons as well)

Space savings. A tankless system takes up much less space than a large traditional tank system, with much less risk of water damage. This makes it possible to put a tankless unit (or multiple) tucked away anywhere in your house.

Cons
Upfront costs. The biggest disadvantage of tankless water heaters is the initial cost. While they can last longer and have lower operating costs that can help offset the higher initial cost, it will take quite some time to realize the savings.

Limited hot water supply. This might sound like a contradiction to one of their biggest pros mentioned above of unlimited water supply, but it’s not. While a tankless water heater will deliver an unlimited stream of hot water, they struggle to deliver a lot of hot water at one time. So while you might be able to take 100 showers in a row if you have the dishwasher, washing machine, and shower going at the same time you might have problems. A traditional tank unit will deliver water to multiple outlets at one time with no problem (though it could exacerbate their problem of eventually running out).

Slower hot water delivery. This is not always the case, but depending on how far your faucet is from the unit, delivery can be a bit slower than a tank unit. With either you’ll need to wait for the water to travel through the pipes but you’ll also need to wait a few extra precious seconds for a tankless unit to heat the water. If you are 2 stories above this might push what already seems like a long wait for hot water from a traditional tank unit past the breaking point. One way to mitigate this is to install units throughout the house (see pros above).

More expensive installation and maintenance. Tankless systems require special venting, rerouted gas lines, possibly multiple units for a larger household, and sometimes maintenance like installing a softener. This can all further offset the operating cost savings.

For us the choice was simple. We had a relatively updated traditional tank unit and weren’t in a position to spend money changing it. If it needed to be replaced we likely would have invested in a tankless system.

If you have had a good or bad experience upgrading to a tankless system let us know about it!

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Hot and Cold: AC and Heat Options To Consider When Renovating

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We grew up in Las Vegas and New Orleans (Happy Mardi Gras!) Although we’ve both been in Brooklyn for decades now, we grew up with very different types of heating and cooling systems that usually focus more on cooling a space rather than heating it. Here in New York it’s often the opposite but they are both important. Traditionally these old buildings focused on heating, and they relied on the masonry walls, tree-lined streets, and tall windows to cool it. But today you’d be pressed to find someone renovating one and not putting in a AC system. The question that has come up for us: does putting in a cooling system change the thought process on how to heat your home?

If your place hasn’t been renovated in a while you likely have a steam, hydronic, or forced air boiler to heat your home. All three are tried, tested, and effective for heat even in very low temps. New construction or older buildings that have been gut renovated may have a central HVAC system delivering both heating and cooling through ducts. In our case we had a hydronic boiler delivering heat through baseboard radiators. We didn’t like the look of them and wanted more traditional exposed radiators. So we changed all of the radiators and piping that delivered hot water to them. But that didn’t help us cool the place! For that we installed a mini split system throughout the house. We didn’t want to run the bulky ducts necessary for central AC or a Unico system.

We went with an LG mini split system that also has a heat pump for heating. We have the radiator system running to heat the place regularly, but occasionally if we want to speed up the process or just make it even cozier we’ll turn on the mini split in heat mode. In not a very long time at all it is so warm that we forget it’s even winter outside.

It’s raises the question, could we just heat our home with the mini split units? Many people have asked and the consensus has been that you could use a mini split system to supplement but not necessarily as a primary heat source with the low temperatures we can get in the northeast.  Our mini split system specs say that it has 100% heating capacity to 5 degrees and “continuous heating operation down to -13 degrees”. That leads us to believe that our mini split system will not effectively heat when it is below -13 degrees. Nevertheless, some people are doing it. And we have heard no complaints from those that we know that only have a mini split system to heat their home. Apparently the technology is getting better for heating so that in the near future, if not now, heating with a mini split system will be a safe choice.

How much does a mini split system cost to install? It can vary depending on what brand you go with and some installation details but a 4-5 unit system might run you $4,000-$7,000 and installation could run $12,000-$18,000. Keep in mind costs for additional electrical work and drywall/plaster repair where the lines are run.

We’ve also seen a lot of places with a ducted forced air heating system. You may have seen the old grates on walls and floors that carry the warm air to each room. For AC, rather than install a mini split system you can just add an AC coil to use the existing ducts for cool air. That option is likely a lot cheaper than installing mini split units which will need electricity and drainage run to them with a lot of drywall and plaster repair once they are installed. To add an AC coil to forced air heating system it can run $10,000-$12,000.

The last option that we have seen recently is installing hydronic radiant floor heat with a mini split system for AC. It’s seems like a combination that will deliver a comfortable feel but not necessarily be budget saver to install.

Anyone have any experience with heating exclusively with a mini split system? Or do you have any other ideas on the best way to configure an HVAC system?

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Brownstone Doors – Replicating What Once Was

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One of the most distinctive features of a Brooklyn brownstone is the double entry doors. They are usually two tall 24” doors with glass panels and decorative moldings. There is sometimes a transom above them or occasionally the door itself follows a curved arch of the facade above.

If they are still there and in good condition after over 100 years after they were installed then you’re lucky! Unfortunately, as it goes with pretty much anything after that much time, they require a lot of maintenance. Since these are no a standard affair they require very specialized skills and can be expensive to repair. And even more expensive to replace. It usually runs $10,000-$20,000 to have your very own custom set of Brooklyn brownstone double built. Because of that it’s very common to see these beautiful double doors replaced with a less expensive standard single door (of the type you might see on the shelf at your local home improvement store) with wood panels on either side to fill the larger space. 

Unfortunately our original doors were long gone when we got our place. It was a big priority for us to at least restore our place with a set of double doors. If you have followed along you might know that we renovated our place with a very low budget. Building custom double doors to match something similar to what might have been original at a cost of over $10,000 just wasn’t an option. So we found a company, Midwood Doors, that could provide a more standard size double door that wasn’t especially ornate but at least echoed the original look and feel. We measured the opening from where we could see the original wood posts on either side. It was 52″ wide so we knew the standard 48″ set of double doors would fit even with the frame, which was also provided.

Once the doors were framed we added the door trim, insulated with spray foam and then added the door moulding.

After a wrong set of doors being delivered, and then our original wood choice being unavailable, we ended up with an upgraded Mahogany door. Even at first sight these doors aren’t trying to pass for the originals, but they look great in their own right. They are tall and heavy with long stately glass panels. The only decoration is a small inset panel on the bottom of each. They’re simple and clean but echo the original idea of what was. The cost? An affordable $1500.

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Pros and Cons of Wall Mounted Toilets

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As you scroll through beautiful bathroom design inspiration photos you might notice a recurring theme. What is it that makes these pictures of bathrooms of your dreams so clean, modern, and sleek? As you look closer you might notice that rather than the sometimes bulky, space-eating floor mounted toilets there is a space-saving modern beauty mounted to the wall! Popular in Europe for their space saving qualities, the wall mounted toilet first made its way to restaurants, bars, and public bathrooms in the US and have recently become more popular if not the latest trend in bathroom design for homes. We considered it for our renovation and have spoken to many other renovators who are doing the same. So what’s the pros and cons? And how do you go about getting one of your own?

Some visual reference for wall mounted toilets. We LOVE the simplicity and visuals for build out. Left photo: Toto Middle photo:Drench.co.uk Right photo: Comparison photo- Kohler

PROS

Modern and Space-Saving

As we mentioned, wall hung toilets have a very streamlined, modern look. The main reason is that the large and bulky tank of a floor mounted toilet is hidden in the wall. The gives you the ability to eliminate the space required for the tank and even the several inches of space behind the toilet, resulting in up to 10”-12” of additional floor space in the bathroom. 

Custom Heights

There is not much you can do to customize the height of a floor mounted toilet. They do come in a couple of different options: standard  height and comfort height (which is a few inches higher). A wall mounted toilet can provide greater flexibility since it can be mounted at whatever height you would like. 

Easy to Clean

Since a wall minted toilet sits above the floor clean up is a breeze. With no difficult or impossible to reach spaces you can more quickly and thoroughly clean. 

CONS
More expensive 
The biggest con to a wall mounted toilet is the cost and effort they take to buy and install. Many times the tank and wall mounting assembly is sold separately from the actual toilet which will also run more than a floor mounted toilet. Steel is usually used to mount and provide the strength necessary to support the weight. This might not be as big of a concern when you are building the a entire bathroom but when you’re retrofitting it can be a very intrusive renovation. The water and waste lines will have to be relocated, the wall will need to be opened up considerably, the studs might even need to be relocated (especially in older homes), and the floor will need to be repaired where the toilet sat. You’ll also need to know if you have 2×4 or 2×6 studs before ordering the equipment since the sizing will be different. 

Harder to Fix
There‘s no opening the lid to jiggle the mechanicals or easily replace a part. The tank is sealed up in the wall. If something goes wrong the trouble and expense to fix a wall mounted toilet could be much more.

Less Options
Since wall mounted toilets are still gaining in popularity in the US there are much fewer options. Only a few companies are selling them and the ones that do only have one or a few models. We checked out the Kohler, Duravit, and Toto versions. 

Ultimately we decided to go with a more streamlined version of floor mounted toilets. We fell in love with the simple, clean and streamlined Miseno high efficiency two-piece elongated chair height toilet with the slow-close seat. We weren’t going for too much of a modern sleek aesthetic in our place, and as you might know we were on a pretty tight budget. Our floor mounted toilets fit in well with our design. But our research will not be wasted as we’re pretty sure one day when we are designing and renovating a future space we have the opportunity to sleek it up with a wall mounted toilet. Are you in the market for one now? Have you installed one and have any feedback?

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How To Strip Paint Off Of Original Woodwork.

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We love sharing our reno and #DIY project stories. And we love hearing from people that are inspired to take on project of their own. By far the topic that we get the most emails about is the process of our paint stripping. So many people out there have beautiful historical homes with woodwork that is buried under decades of paint. It’s a tough and messy job and people have asked how our paint stripping specialist got it done so well! Our woodwork – bannister, window casings, door casings, and shutters all look amazing now that they are seeing the light of day from under all of that paint. 

Before we dive in we need to start with a word of caution. There are dangerous chemicals involved not to mention the possibility of lead paint. The process she follows may not be for everyone, but it certainly does the job. If you do strip wood please only handle with most care. We recommend a professional if a lot of wood is to be stripped and it is probably a good idea to do it when no one is living in the house. 

We were so so lucky to find Maria, our wood stripper, who has been stripping wood for over 30+ years and has handled every sort of wood, issue, and chemical in the industry. We recently caught up with her at a new job she’s working on to get a better handle of the process. 

Here we go!

Items necessary for paint stripping: left- chemical, center top- denatured alcohol, top right- steel wool, bottom left- respirator, bottom center- heat gun, bottom right- tools

Items necessary:

– Gloves (lots and lots of gloves). We recommend latex under cloth gloves
– Respirator. You want a good one that will cover the entire mouth. Chemicals will be used and who knows the history of your paint.
– Heat Gun- a durable one
– Steal Wool
– Tarp/Plastic
– Cheese Cloth- full box or large sponge- your preference
– Wire Brush
– Other tools used to scrape, scrub and clean
– Chemicals recommended: US Government Stripper, Zip Strip, Jasco, Rock Miracle

– Denatured Alcohol

Process

1. Heat Gun the wood you will strip- this will help the paint warm up and remove some layers
2. Remove any paint that has been removed with heat gun
3. Apply Chemical- use a spray bottle-  Let chemical sit 10-15 MINUTES
4. Clean remnants with cheese cloth or a large sponge- After the heat gun, the paint will hopefully come off in layers. Cheese cloth is a good material to swipe the chemical off. It will fall on the tarp that should be well taped to the area you are working in.
5. Use wire brush or steel wool to get areas that are more delicate and hard to get in large quantities.

6. Wipe wood down with something like Denatured Alcohol and continue to clean with steel wool.

This process removed every speck of paint from our woodwork, even in detailed places with lots of crevices. We’re sure that there are other tools used, maybe even some that are safer. If something worked well for you let us know!

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Choosing The Right General Contractor For Your Renovation.

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As we have gone through our renovation, and spoken to many other people who are in the process, it’s clear to us that one of the most important decisions you can make in your entire renovation is choosing the right general contractor. It can be a very frustrating situation if you make the wrong choice. It isn’t just about finding a great general contractor but finding the right general contractor for your project.

Different GC’s have different strengths. There are contractors that are really good with gutting and modernizing a space and there are contractors that are good at restoring and bringing back the history in a place. Sure one can get the work done in the opposite scenario but it doesn’t make them the best for the job.

Is your renovation ultra modern with glass railings and concrete floors or are you restoring a 150 year old bannister and original parquet floors? You’ll want someone who will be able to offer you the most support and expertise for your job. 

Do you want a contractor who also has a lot of mill work skills?  Not all of them do, they might sub contract it out. That’s not always a bad thing, but if your project has central features that involve mill work it could be an important consideration. Are you fixing an apartment that was flooded from your upstairs neighbors broken pipe? You will save yourself some stressful moments if you find the right person. 

What about budget? If you have a more limited budget there are some contractors who will be better and more willing to work with it. It doesn’t always mean you need to accept lower quality work. No more than paying much more always mean higher quality work. It just depends on where you put the money you have and potentially finding less expensive ways of doing things. There are several places in our renovation where we had the same work done by changing the plan a bit to find a cost savings, without sacrificing on the quality.

Finding the right person can be a challenge. Our advice is to take your time. Interview several GC’s. Ask them questions about not only what type of work they have done, but what time of jobs they enjoy. A contractor that is passionate about restoring historic properties might be the person to go through your historic renovation with. 

Ask around for recommendations. If you know someone who did a similar job and had a great experience that is a good place to start, but be careful not making it the most important consideration. 

We’re big fans of forums like Brownstoner and have been introduced to several GC’s and service providers that way. You might not always know someone personally who can give the right recommendation so it is a good way to connect with people who can. Designers, architects, and other professionals in the industry you might be working with will also have great recommendations.  Don’t take these lightly, but do your own homework and ask your own questions as well. 

You and your contractor are going to go through a lot together. GC’s kind of become your family throughout the process. There will be good moments and there will be some not so good moments. There is no question about it. Make sure it is someone you feel comfortable with. You need to know that they will be honest with you and you can be honest with them. Other than a matching skill set, great communication is high on our list for a must-have traits. You’ll want to communicate often and effectively with your GC. If you don’t feel that way in the interview process it certainly isn’t going to get better once the project starts. Make sure they have the communication skills you are looking for.

Going through a renovation can be a stressful process. Make sure you have a partner in a GC that you’ll want to work with throughout the whole renovation.

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Getting A Renovation Project Started.

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We’ve spoken with a lot of new home owners who close on their place and then look at one another and think, “now what?!” How do we find a contractor? Do we need an architect? Where do we start? All questions we get weekly. Understanding even a little bit of the process can help relieve some of the stress of starting a new renovation. 

It may seem obvious but the first thing we would suggest is to make a list of what you want to do. How many bedrooms do you need? Do you want to increase the square footage and build an extension? Are you moving the kitchen or the bathrooms? Are you opening up any walls? You’ll need to at least have a basic list of the scope of the work as you move forward and have other conversations. 

Another thing we usually suggest thinking about first is if you will need a project manager. We’re managing our own project and I would say we’re spending 7-10 hours a week on it, if not more some weeks. There is so much to do even if you have a GC doing the heavy lifting. Some people just do not have the capacity (or possibly the knowledge) to manage their own project. That is where a project manager can come in. It’s good to make this decision first because they can also bring in a team (architect, GC, designers, other skilled tradesman) which can help as you will spend a lot of time trying to find the right people. 

Whether or not you use a PM the next step would normally be to start interviewing architects and general contractors. Ask around for recommendations! Choosing the right GC might be the most important decision you make. If you can find someone who you know has done good work it can relieve a lot of stress and potentially avoid some frustrating problems. If you are using a PM they may have one or several GC’s to work with. 

Your meetings with general contractors will give you a lot of info about what you’re doing. For instance, if you’re removing walls what structural changes you need to make?  Do you need new electrical and what is the status of the plumbing? If you are adding bathrooms, moving kitchens, building an addition or new level what will be the structural implications? 

Before you choose a GC, you’ll also want to consult with an architect. If you’re moving any walls or changing the configuration you will most likely need to file with the department of buildings. In any case, an architect can offer some great advice on what needs to be done and what the costs will be. The architect will draw up the plans, facilitate the city filing, and can work directly with your GC. The architect and GC (and project manager if you are using one) are usually the first members of the team. 

Are you confident in your design skills? If so, it is certainly possible to make all of your own design decisions. If not, you might want to consult with an Interior Designer. Remember there are so many little details to bring together that you might not think about yourself. An interior designer can help you realize your vision and will have ideas that you wouldn’t have thought of. 

Keep in mind that you might need to pull in other skilled tradesman along the way. In our renovation, we had to find someone who specializes in plaster moldings, wood stripping, and custom woodwork. It was just outside of the scope of what our GC would be able to do. Before we’re finished I’m sure we’ll need to find some other specialists. 

Once you have the GC chosen and the architect working on the drawings, it is very important to get a good understanding of the timing of your project. You’ll need to consider where you’re going to live while it’s in progress. Anyone who has moved into a place before the renovation was complete would probably recommend against it. You don’t want to put yourself in a situation where you are stressing about rushing the finish. You will have delays. Plan for them, expect them, and they won’t cause as much stress.

We’re sure you started discussing budget from the very beginning, but based on the quotes you received from your GC and architect you can start fine tuning it. Keep in mind that the quote from your contractor will most likely not include the finishes. Cabinets, counters, tile, light fixtures, doors, bath fixtures, and many many more things will need to be purchased. A project manager or an interior designer may be able to help with this part.  We ordered everything ourselves and it took a considerable amount of time. 

Give a lot of thought to your floor plan before you have the architect draw up the plans. Every change will cost money. Once the plan is approved with a DOB an expensive amendment would need to be filed. 

Speaking of the DOB, this is one of the biggest headaches for renovators. Plan on the filing process taking a least 2 months (if handled properly). We recommend working with an architect who will personally go to the meeting with the plan examiner. In our situation, we think that saved a lot of back an forth and also may have avoided some objections. 

In the few months that it will take to work with your architect and file with the city, start choosing your finishes. This will take a lot of time. Go to showrooms, start a few Pinterest boards, go to open houses, do whatever you can to try to understand what you like. This is where many people see delays in their project. Not from the city, or the contractor, but in making their own decisions. Remember that there will be a lead time for many items. Once you chose that tile you want it could take a month or even 2 to get it. If you don’t order it on time, or if you don’t order enough, that is where the delays can start adding up. 

Having the opportunity to create your own space can be rewarding. We are constantly reminding ourselves that we will only have this opportunity once (or maybe twice…3 times ;)) in a lifetime. It can be stressful and it is a lot of work, but remember as often as you can to enjoy the process and have fun with it! We’re about a month out from finishing the ground work (fingers crossed!) and using this time to reflect on our first home together. We’re very excited!

Contractor Shopping: How to choose the right one.

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Our renovation project is approved, our neighbors are notified (DOB requirement), and we are ready to get a contractor in the building. We provided the architect’s detailed drawings to the contractors that we were considering so that they can build out their quotes. If you’ve followed along you know we have a tight budget. We had to adjust our project several times to make sure that we stay on budget. We hoped we were going to spend about $200,000 on the labor and rough materials (so basically the contractors proposal not including finishes). However we knew that was going to be a stretch. Our first choice for a contractor was one that we worked with on a past project. We’re familiar with his work but we know that he can be a bit more expensive. His proposal came back at $270,000. We thought about continuing to cut down our project, but we are down to the necessities. So, we decided to bid out the job. The process got us thinking about what our shopping list for choosing a contractor should be. Price is important but there are so many horror stories we’ve heard from bad contractor experiences. How do we put ourselves in the best position to avoid that?

1. Price – Most contractors figure out their pricing based on cost of materials, labor, insurance, complexity of the project…etc. So when they run the numbers they shouldn’t be too far off. However there can be some key differences in figuring out the price. Do they sub work out? Or do they have crews that do all trades? We need to be able to pay for our project, so either we need to reduce the scope or go with a contractor that bids within budget.

2. Communication – Most of the horror stories I’ve heard are around contractors not showing up, falling far behind schedule, not returning calls, and generally not being available. The communication before starting is a good indication of the kind of communication you’ll get during the project.

3. Reviews – Any experienced contractor should have tons of reviews out there. There are websites like Brownstoner, Houzz, HomeAdvisor, Angies List, and others. Surprisingly one of the ones I felt the most comfortable with was Google. You have the ability to click on the reviewer and see other places they left reviews. It was pretty clear that they were real people (you never know). 

4. Past work/referrals – Most contractors have websites (although I don’t necessarily think a basic or low-fi website in the construction industry to should be looked down upon too much) with photos of past work. You can also ask for referrals to speak with before moving forward. 

5. In person meeting – I know that we are going to spend a lot of time with our contractor throughout the project.  There will be stressful situations and lots of decisions to make. I want to make sure that the person can explain things clearly, make recommendations, and be generally easy to work with. The in person meeting helps with getting an understanding of how the person communicates and how those stressful conversations might go. 

6. Knowledge – At this point in our project, we’re very familiar with every part of it. As we walked around with our contractors and talked about each area it’s very easy to understand how much knowledge and experience they have. I had a few questions ready to ask for each area to see how they respond. 

7. Licensing and Insurance – Most general contractors are, but obviously it’s important to confirm. 

We’re not professionals, but those are the things that we thought were important. If there are things that you would consider let us know! For now, we have selected a contractor based on the items above. We found someone that is not only very close to our budget, but he has been excellent at communication, has great reviews and prior work, our in-person meeting went great, he seems very knowledgable on every area of our project, and has already been very helpful. Since we are skipping working with the contractor we have worked with in the past we tried to be as diligent as possible. There is a bit of unknown nerves working with someone new, but we feel that it was more important for us to not have to cut more from the project. 

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